Albania

So, after Macedonia, we made the 2.5 hour drive over to Berat, Albania.  I didn't know what to expect, but the roads made me fear the worst.  There were pot holes that would damage and 18-wheeler.  Seriously, the roads were enough to make you drink, then sleep in the car and head out the next day.

We arrived in Berat and checked into Hotel Mangalemi.  An oasis of peace in the city.  The rooms were cheap and AMAZING.  The staff was so helpful and friendly that it was ridiculous that we were paying what we were.  I have to admit that I wasn't that enamored with the city at first glance.  Dusty is a good word.  Also, in need of some TLC.  Lots of it.  However, at dinner that night, after what I can only describe as life-changing eggplant, we met Neli, who was our fast friend and fantastic tour guide for the rest of the trip.

The first night, we dined at the hotel since we were tired.  Driving in the car over bad roads takes it out of everyone.

Alright, technically, we went to an ATM, then bar, then dinner.  Tirana was a good beer.  And cold.  Cold beer is always a great plus.

We listened to Neli's suggestions, but also went with what our gut was telling us.  I got the eggplant with meat sauce.  Now, I have to say that I haven't had good luck with eggplant recently.  It can be tricky to cook since it does absorb oil like a sponge.  However, this was covered in a fresh meat sauce (bolognese) and cooked in the oven.  It was so good.  SO GOOD!  Lynn got the lamb with yougurt and eggs and we shared the Mangalemi casserole- a meat, cheese and veggie mixture that was so good.  I think I can say that the food at the hotel is amazing.  

For dessert (there is always room for it), Lynn got the honey nut cake and I got baklava.  Both were very good and a great way to end the meal.

After hiking up a steep hill, climbing towers and such, we were starving.  Neli left us in the capable hands of Taverna Lazaro and ordered for us.  Good choice.  We started with a Greek salad with fresh, fresh, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions, olives and cheese.  The cheese...oh the cheese.  We then got the same cheese grilled.  It was a semi-soft cheese that held its' shape when grilled and goes really well with tomatoes and oregano.  If you happen upon this blog and know what it is called, please let me know!  We also got fresh tatziki, bread and the most amazing skewers and pork chops!  The skewers were chicken wrapped with bacon.  The chicken was moist and just amazing.  The pork chops were so good, moist and just simple.  Salt, oregano, lemon juice and olive oil.  It just reminds me that simple is always a good call when it comes to food.  Sometimes, you just don't need fancy food.  You just need simple to remind you what food is supposed to taste like when it is fresh and well prepared.

After eating way more than was necessary, we were served fresh fruit- nectarines, peaches and apples.  No extra sugar was need to bring out their flavor.  Just good fruit.

After rolling ourselves back down the hill, we spent the rest of the day relaxing.

Thankfully, we had more walking to help burn off the calories the next day.  It was a shorter day, but still a very nice day.  We had a light lunch at the hotel since we wanted dinner that night as well.

We opted for the bean salad and grilled cheese.  Again, it comes down to simple food with fresh flavors.

One of the more memorable things about our day was a stop-over at a sweet lady's house to see a painting done by an Italian after the War who was held by the Albanian family for his safety.  She offered us tomato jam and a heart-wrenching story about her family.  I know I'm pretty glib here, but her story truly broke my heart and it reminds you that some people are still suffering the effects of Communism- 21 years after it ended.

Said tomato jam.

After another great dinner at the hotel (sorry, no pictures.  I forgot my camera), we headed off to bed.  We had a 6-hour drive to Montenegro, and still needed to pack, etc.

Next up- BIRTHDAY DINNER!  WHAT!!  

Macedonia

It was with heavy hearts, and somewhat empty stomachs, that we headed out of Bulgaria and on to Ohrid, Macedonia.  We spent the night in Sofia and were up early for the 6-hour drive to Ohrid.  In terms of food, we had no idea what to expect.  We were really very surprised.  Our first stop, after the ATM and walking up the three floors several times with our luggage was a bar, the Royal View.  They had a fantastic view of the lake, and as it turns out, a really good breakfast.  I tried the local beer and Lynn got a local wine.  Both were good choices.  I've said it before and I will continue to say it until I am proven very wrong, but local drinks are always a good choice.  At least with beer.  Don't go to Ukraine and expect fantastic wine.  They just don't drink it.  Since I had read that Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro (see next two posts) had good wines, why not?

After drinks, we headed to Hotel Tino for dinner.  We got a very good local red wine that was a surprise since they didn't have our first choice.

As is the usual M.O. over here, we were starving when we sat down, so of course, we ordered way to much.  I started with the baked broccoli.  I like anything (well, almost anything) that is coated with cheese and cream.  This broccoli was no different.  It is the only way that I will now eat broccoli, assuming that I have it in me to coat it with becheamel and cheese, then bake.  Check back to see if I ever get that done.  Of course, Lynn got a salad, which was just what was needed.  Interesting fact: in Macedonia, they don't do dressing.  They will serve oil and vinegar on the side to everyone.  My kind of country.  

I braved it and got a steak with fried onions.  My first hope in this was when I was asked how I wanted it done.  Now, in the past month or so, when steak has been ordered, they do not ask how you want it done.  This was hope!  Lynn opted for the grilled calamari.  I think I won the food war here.  The steak was so thick that it would have made a Texan proud.  And happy.  Both of which I was.  The fried onions were...just amazing.  I was informed that the calamari was very good.  The only draw back was that a lot of salt was used.  However, I over looked it for the above stated facts.  My only regret is that I didn't finish it all.

St. John's- the most photographed place in Macedonia.  And, also, a Bing background one day.

We had a walking tour the next day and after said tour, we were starving.  It was pretty hot there and walking up many, many hills can get a girl's hunger up.  Our guide dropped us off at a restaurant on the water and on Kosta Abras.  I have no idea what it was called (maybe Dalga?).  The result was great food that made us stuffed.  We started with a stuffed, fried pancake (stuffed with cheese and ham) and a roasted red pepper dip with beans.  Both were fantastic.  This was followed by stuffed peppers for me and stuffed squash for Lynn.  Again, fantastic.

The next day, we headed to Sv. Naum, close to the Albanian border.  We ate some trout there- fresh from the lake and hot off the grill.  Don't worry.  It wasn't the endangered Ohrid trout.  The secenery was the realy find though.  Featured at Sv. Naum is the source of water for Lake Ohrid.  The water for Lake Ohrid actually comes from Lake Prespa and is filtered down since Prespa is about 150 m above Ohrid.  Learning...it's just not for school.

After Sv. Naum, we headed out the next day to Struga (which, after this blog, we will never mention again).  We couldn't find anything we wanted to see, so we saw some lunch.  We got the breaded cheese and a mixed salad.  Both were good.  You just can't go wrong with a salad.  Well, maybe you can.  If you do go wrong, please don't let me know about it.

Sunset on Lake Ohrid.

My view from the little swimming dock, where I thought it would be the BEST IDEA EVER to jump into the 50 degree lake.  At least I could see the bottom and it was freshwater.  Not that freshwater at 50 is any better than salt, but I didn't feel salty after said swim.  That was a plus.

For our last meal in Macedonia, we headed to Taverna Momir.  We had a great view out onto the lake and great food to top it off.  We started with the Macedonian salad- tomatoes, roasted green peppers, parsley and shit loads of garlic.  This was accompanied by bread with garlic spread.  Garlic spread being garlic that is turned into paste with the help of a little salt.  There were no vampires that night!  Lynn and I got pork/veal with mushrooms.  Both were very good and the sauce was great.  The mushrooms needed a little TLC, but what can you do.  We had a great bottle of local white wine and some great conversation.  We finished off the night with baklava and pancakes with nuts.  Both were good.

Overall, we were very surprised with the food in Macedonia.  I mean, after a month of let-downs, it's great to find some food that is not only edible, but also well prepared.  Stay tuned for the adventures of Albania and what I did for my birthday!  YAY!  Birthday!

   

Bulgaria- Part 2

So, here we are, still in Bulgaria for all intents and purposes.  Technically, I am not in Bulgaria, but we'll get to that in the next post.  So, I hate to say it, but the food did not get better.  It just got more edible.  Our favorite discovery was the "baked potatoes."  These were actually just potatoes cooked with cream, cheese and turkey (the lunch meat kind, but whatever).  Or, better yet, leave out the turkey.  They were good.  

Self-portrait.

One of my favorite dessert things is chocolate-coated honeycomb.  Not the actual honeycomb, but the British version that is featured in Crunchie bars.  Nom!  This dessert featured said honeycomb.  That, and it was the only thing other than said potatoes above that was edible.

One of the things that they haven't managed to mess up is fresh salads with a salty, Feta like cheese.  They also have a great spread that is made from tomatoes, garlic and fresh, roasted red peppers.  It is fantastic!  It is great by itself or spread on some bread.  The two pictures above and the four below were taken at Aquamarin in Nesebar.  The lamb and burger were great.  The bun reminded me of Fuddrucker's.  All buttery and toasted.  So good!  The lamb, I was told, was very good as well.  But, please keep in mind, that very good in Bulgaria and very good in France are two different things.  

The yougurt with honey, nuts (and figs) was a big hit.  The yogurt was strained, so it was thick and creamy.  Of course, the honey, nuts and figs were all fresh as well.

One of the things that I should mention about Bulgarian restaurants is that they just serve food when it is available and ready.  Did you want your salad first?  Nope, it will come out with the main course.  And of course, your main is served a good five minutes before everyone elses'.  How do you maintain manners (you know, waiting until everyone is served before starting)?  You don't.  You just eat when the food comes and hope that your dinning companion's food will come very soon.  

I hate to keep bashing Bulgaria.  I think that the country has a lot of charm and a lot to offer.  However, with all the fondness that I have for it, the food needs some major TLC.  It leaves a lot to be desired.  Which is a shame, since they have great natural resources.  Their fruits, vegetables and herbs are some of the best in the world due to their soil, yet there is a lack of knowledge on how to prepare them.  Perhaps, next year, they'll get it down.