Albania

So, after Macedonia, we made the 2.5 hour drive over to Berat, Albania.  I didn't know what to expect, but the roads made me fear the worst.  There were pot holes that would damage and 18-wheeler.  Seriously, the roads were enough to make you drink, then sleep in the car and head out the next day.

We arrived in Berat and checked into Hotel Mangalemi.  An oasis of peace in the city.  The rooms were cheap and AMAZING.  The staff was so helpful and friendly that it was ridiculous that we were paying what we were.  I have to admit that I wasn't that enamored with the city at first glance.  Dusty is a good word.  Also, in need of some TLC.  Lots of it.  However, at dinner that night, after what I can only describe as life-changing eggplant, we met Neli, who was our fast friend and fantastic tour guide for the rest of the trip.

The first night, we dined at the hotel since we were tired.  Driving in the car over bad roads takes it out of everyone.

Alright, technically, we went to an ATM, then bar, then dinner.  Tirana was a good beer.  And cold.  Cold beer is always a great plus.

We listened to Neli's suggestions, but also went with what our gut was telling us.  I got the eggplant with meat sauce.  Now, I have to say that I haven't had good luck with eggplant recently.  It can be tricky to cook since it does absorb oil like a sponge.  However, this was covered in a fresh meat sauce (bolognese) and cooked in the oven.  It was so good.  SO GOOD!  Lynn got the lamb with yougurt and eggs and we shared the Mangalemi casserole- a meat, cheese and veggie mixture that was so good.  I think I can say that the food at the hotel is amazing.  

For dessert (there is always room for it), Lynn got the honey nut cake and I got baklava.  Both were very good and a great way to end the meal.

After hiking up a steep hill, climbing towers and such, we were starving.  Neli left us in the capable hands of Taverna Lazaro and ordered for us.  Good choice.  We started with a Greek salad with fresh, fresh, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions, olives and cheese.  The cheese...oh the cheese.  We then got the same cheese grilled.  It was a semi-soft cheese that held its' shape when grilled and goes really well with tomatoes and oregano.  If you happen upon this blog and know what it is called, please let me know!  We also got fresh tatziki, bread and the most amazing skewers and pork chops!  The skewers were chicken wrapped with bacon.  The chicken was moist and just amazing.  The pork chops were so good, moist and just simple.  Salt, oregano, lemon juice and olive oil.  It just reminds me that simple is always a good call when it comes to food.  Sometimes, you just don't need fancy food.  You just need simple to remind you what food is supposed to taste like when it is fresh and well prepared.

After eating way more than was necessary, we were served fresh fruit- nectarines, peaches and apples.  No extra sugar was need to bring out their flavor.  Just good fruit.

After rolling ourselves back down the hill, we spent the rest of the day relaxing.

Thankfully, we had more walking to help burn off the calories the next day.  It was a shorter day, but still a very nice day.  We had a light lunch at the hotel since we wanted dinner that night as well.

We opted for the bean salad and grilled cheese.  Again, it comes down to simple food with fresh flavors.

One of the more memorable things about our day was a stop-over at a sweet lady's house to see a painting done by an Italian after the War who was held by the Albanian family for his safety.  She offered us tomato jam and a heart-wrenching story about her family.  I know I'm pretty glib here, but her story truly broke my heart and it reminds you that some people are still suffering the effects of Communism- 21 years after it ended.

Said tomato jam.

After another great dinner at the hotel (sorry, no pictures.  I forgot my camera), we headed off to bed.  We had a 6-hour drive to Montenegro, and still needed to pack, etc.

Next up- BIRTHDAY DINNER!  WHAT!!